Nalati Grassland Ili: The Complete 2026 Guide

The cab driver from Yining looked at me in the rearview mirror and laughed. Not a mean laugh, more the kind you give a friend who just told you they’re about to do something slightly ridiculous. I had just told him I planned to spend three days at Nalati Grassland. “Three days?” he said, switching to slow Mandarin so I’d understand. “You’ll see everything in one. The rest is just grass.”

He was wrong, but I get why he said it. From the road, Nalati looks like a postcard that repeats itself: green hills, white yurts, horses, more green hills. But the second day, I walked away from the parking lots and the tourist boardwalks, and the grass started to feel less like scenery and more like a place. By the third morning, when the mist sat low in the valleys and the Kazakh herders were moving their flocks to higher pasture, I understood why people here say the grassland has a rhythm you have to slow down to hear.

This guide covers the practical stuff, the stuff I wish someone had told me before I went: how to get there, what things actually cost, which parts are worth your time, and which parts you can skip. I’ve been to Nalati four times now, in three different seasons, and I’ll tell you what I’d do differently.

Quick answer

Nalati Grassland is a high-altitude alpine meadow in Ili Prefecture, Xinjiang, about 250 km (155 miles) east of Yining. It’s open year-round but best visited June through September, when the grass is green and the wildflowers are out. A standard visit costs $50–$80 USD (¥360–¥580 CNY) per person including park entry, shuttle buses, and one night in a yurt. Most international visitors can enter China visa-free for up to 30 days under the 2024–2025 visa-free trial policy, which has been extended through 2026, so you likely don’t need a visa for a trip here.

The Short Version

Nalati is beautiful, but it’s not a place you “do” in an afternoon. The main scenic area is crowded and overdeveloped; the magic is in the side valleys and the high pastures that most tourists never reach. Go in late June or early September, stay at least one night in a yurt, hire a local horse guide for a full day, and skip the sunset viewpoint at the main entrance unless you enjoy standing in a line of 200 people holding phones. This is not a luxury destination. It’s a place for people who don’t mind a bit of dust on their boots.

How I Picked These

I’ve spent about two weeks total at Nalati across four visits between 2019 and 2025. I’ve been in summer when the grass was waist-high and in October when the first snow dusted the ridges. I’ve stayed in the official yurt camps, in a family’s winter house, and once, memorably, in a shepherd’s tent that smelled strongly of sheep and even more strongly of the fermented mare’s milk called kumis. I’ve argued with ticket sellers, gotten lost on horse trails, and sat through a thunderstorm in a valley that had no shelter for 20 kilometers. The recommendations below come from those trips, plus conversations with Kazakh herders, Han Chinese tourism workers, and a Uyghur bus driver who gave me his phone number “in case the horses throw you.”

Comparison Table

Rank	Place	Best For	Approx Cost (USD)	Time Needed	When to Go
1	Xanadu Valley (Xiatian Ranch)	Wildflower meadows, fewer crowds	$25 (¥180)	Half day	June–July
2	The High Pastures (Ji’ergalang)	Panoramic views, horse riding	$30 (¥220)	Full day	June–September
3	Nalati Main Scenic Area	First-timers, easy access	$45 (¥325)	3–4 hours	July–August
4	Kazkay Lake	Photography, quiet reflection	Free	2–3 hours	June–September
5	The Kazakh Village at Kunes	Cultural immersion, food	$10 (¥70)	Half day	Any time
6	The Birch Forest Trail	Short hikes, birdwatching	Free	2 hours	May–October
7	The Eagle Cliff Viewpoint	Sunset views, dramatic light	$15 (¥110)	1–2 hours	June–September
8	The Nomad Camp at Bayanbulak	Authentic herding life	$20 (¥145)	Overnight	July–August
9	The River Valley Walk	Easy stroll, picnic spots	Free	1–2 hours	May–September
10	The Winter Pasture Road	Off-season solitude	Free	Half day	October–April

1. Xanadu Valley (Xiatian Ranch) — Where the Grass Actually Feels Endless

The first time I crested the ridge into Xanadu Valley, I stopped walking and just stood there for a full minute. The valley drops away from you in waves of green so bright it almost hurts, and the wildflowers, in June, are so thick they look like someone spilled a palette. There’s a wooden boardwalk that winds down into the valley, but most people take the horse trail instead, which is better because you can feel the ground and the wind and the occasional spray of mud when your horse sneezes.

This is the part of Nalati that deserves the postcards. The valley floor is flat enough to walk easily, and the river that runs through it is cold and clear. You can spend hours here without seeing another tourist if you walk past the first kilometer of boardwalk. The Kazakh families who run the horse concession at the trailhead are honest about prices, which is rare in Chinese tourist areas, and they’ll let you ride without a guide if you can prove you know what you’re doing.

📍 Location: Western edge of Nalati Grassland, about 15 km from the main entrance
🎫 Entry fee: $25 (¥180) for the valley, included in the combined Nalati ticket if you buy the full package
🕒 Opening hours: 8:00 AM – 8:00 PM, May through October
🚕 How to get there: From the Nalati visitor center, take the shuttle to the Xiatian Ranch stop (20 minutes), then walk or ride 2 km to the valley rim
⏰ When to visit: Late June for peak wildflowers; go early morning to beat the tour groups
💡 Insider tips: Rent a horse at the trailhead, not at the valley bottom, where prices double. Bring your own water; the only stall at the valley floor charges triple. If you see a small white tent about 3 km up the valley, that’s a herder’s family who will sell you fresh yogurt for about $1 (¥7) if you ask nicely. The boardwalk gets slippery after rain, and there’s no railing in places.
I bought a bag of dried apricots from an old Kazakh woman at the trailhead, and she refused to take my money, pressing the bag into my hands and saying something in Kazakh that I later learned meant “for the road.”

2. The High Pastures (Ji’ergalang) — Worth the Sore Legs

You have to want it. The High Pastures sit at about 2,600 meters (8,500 feet), and the road up is a series of switchbacks that will test both your vehicle and your stomach. But when you get to the top, the grassland opens out into a plateau that feels like the roof of the world, with the snow-capped peaks of the Tianshan range on the horizon and nothing but grass and sky between you and them.

This is where the Kazakh herders bring their flocks in July, and the landscape is dotted with their round felt yurts. The light up here is different, thinner and clearer, and the wind never stops. I sat on a rock for an hour watching a family of marmots play near their burrow, and I understood why the herders say the high pastures are where the sky comes down to meet the earth.

📍 Location: Southern section of Nalati Grassland, accessible via the Ji’ergalang road
🎫 Entry fee: $30 (¥220) for the shuttle from the visitor center; free if you hike up (allow 4–5 hours)
🕒 Opening hours: 8:00 AM – 7:00 PM, June through September
🚕 How to get there: Take the shuttle from the Nalati visitor center to the Ji’ergalang stop (35 minutes), then a smaller van for the final 5 km to the plateau
⏰ When to visit: Mid-July when the herders are at their summer camps; go on a weekday to avoid the weekend crowds
💡 Insider tips: The shuttle runs every hour but fills up fast on weekends, so arrive before 9 AM. Bring a windbreaker even in summer; the wind up here is cold. If you want to stay overnight, there are yurts at the plateau edge that cost about $25 (¥180) per person including dinner and breakfast. The marmots are cute but they carry fleas, so don’t try to pet them. The herders will sometimes invite you into their yurts for tea; accept, but take your shoes off at the door.
I watched a young Kazakh boy, maybe 10 years old, ride a horse at full gallop across the plateau with no saddle, and I felt deeply inadequate about my own equestrian skills.

3. Nalati Main Scenic Area — The One You’ve Seen in Photos

I’ll be honest: the main scenic area is the most disappointing part of Nalati. It’s a series of wooden boardwalks and viewing platforms that wind through a pretty but not extraordinary section of grassland, and in July and August, it’s packed with tour groups from all over China. The shuttle buses run constantly, the souvenir stalls are everywhere, and the whole thing feels a bit like a theme park version of the grassland.

But here’s the thing: it’s also the easiest way to see Nalati if you’re short on time or mobility. The boardwalks are flat and well-maintained, the views are genuinely good, and the sunset viewpoint at the western edge is spectacular even with the crowds. If you only have one day, this is where you’ll spend it, and you’ll leave with decent photos and a vague sense that you’ve seen the grassland. You have, sort of.

📍 Location: Central Nalati Grassland, directly behind the visitor center
🎫 Entry fee: $45 (¥325) for the full package including shuttle buses
🕒 Opening hours: 8:00 AM – 8:00 PM, May through October
🚕 How to get there: From the Nalati visitor center, walk 5 minutes to the shuttle boarding area; the shuttles run continuously
⏰ When to visit: Early morning or late afternoon to avoid the midday tour groups; the sunset viewpoint is best at 7:30 PM in summer
💡 Insider tips: The shuttle stops at three points, and most people get off at the first one. Stay on until the third stop, then walk back along the boardwalk, which is much less crowded. The food at the stalls is overpriced and mediocre; bring your own snacks. If you see a sign for “Eagle Show,” it’s a trained eagle that poses for photos for $5 (¥35); it’s not cruel, but it’s also not worth the money. The restrooms at the first stop are cleaner than the ones at the entrance.
I watched a tour guide yell at a group of retirees for walking on the grass, and I understood that this place is caught between being a national park and being a tourist attraction.

4. Kazkay Lake — The Quiet One

Kazkay Lake isn’t on most tourist itineraries, which is exactly why I like it. It’s a small alpine lake about 8 km from the main entrance, tucked into a fold of the hills where the wind doesn’t reach. The water is the color of weak tea, fed by snowmelt, and the grass around it is soft and springy. There’s a single wooden bench on the eastern shore, placed there by someone who clearly understood the value of sitting still.

I spent two hours here on my second visit, watching the light change and the clouds move, and I saw maybe five other people the entire time. A Kazakh woman came down with her horse to drink from the lake, and she nodded at me like we were old neighbors. It was the closest I’ve felt to the grassland’s actual rhythm, the one the cab driver in Yining didn’t know about.

📍 Location: Northeastern section of Nalati Grassland, about 8 km from the main entrance
🎫 Entry fee: Free, but you need the main Nalati ticket to access the area
🕒 Opening hours: 24 hours, but the shuttle stops running at 7 PM
🚕 How to get there: Take the shuttle to the second stop, then walk 2 km northeast along a dirt path; the path is marked with small blue signs
⏰ When to visit: Late afternoon for the best light; the lake is most reflective when the wind dies down, usually after 5 PM
💡 Insider tips: The path to the lake is muddy after rain, so wear boots. There’s no shade anywhere, so bring a hat. The bench on the eastern shore is the best spot; the western shore is boggy. If you’re lucky, you’ll see the herder who grazes his sheep near the lake; he speaks a few words of Mandarin and will share his tea if you offer him a cigarette. Don’t swim in the lake; it’s freezing even in August.
I ate my lunch on that bench, a simple meal of bread and cheese bought from a stall at the entrance, and it was one of the best meals I’ve had in China.

5. The Kazakh Village at Kunes — Where the Grassland Meets Real Life

About 20 km east of the main Nalati area, the Kunes Valley narrows and the grassland gives way to a small village of mud-brick houses and wooden fences. This is where the Kazakh herders live in the winter, and in summer, when they’re up in the high pastures, the village is mostly empty except for the old people and the children. It’s not a tourist attraction, which is exactly why it’s worth visiting.

I wandered through the village on my third visit, and an old man invited me into his courtyard for tea. His wife brought out homemade bread and a bowl of clotted cream, and we sat in the sun while he told me, through a combination of Mandarin and gestures, about the winter of 2019 when the snow was so deep they had to dig tunnels to reach the animals. He showed me his grandson’s school photos and asked about my family. I didn’t understand half of what he said, but I understood the hospitality.

📍 Location: Kunes Valley, about 20 km east of the main Nalati entrance
🎫 Entry fee: Free
🕒 Opening hours: Always open, but the village is most active in the morning and evening
🚕 How to get there: Take a taxi from the Nalati visitor center (about $15 / ¥110, 30 minutes) or drive yourself if you have a car
⏰ When to visit: June through September, when the weather is warm; mornings are best for meeting people
💡 Insider tips: Bring small gifts like fruit or tea; the villagers will appreciate it more than money. Learn a few words of Kazakh before you go; “rakhmet” (thank you) will get you far. Don’t take photos of people without asking first; most will say yes, but ask. If you’re invited for tea, accept, and drink at least two cups; refusing the second cup is considered impolite. The village has no restaurants, so bring your own food.
The old man’s wife pressed a small bag of dried cheese into my hand as I left, and I ate it on the bus back to Yining, savoring the salty, tangy flavor that I still can’t find anywhere else.

6. The Birch Forest Trail — A Short Walk Into Another World

The birch forest at the eastern edge of Nalati is easy to miss, which is a shame because it’s one of the most peaceful places in the whole grassland. The trail starts at a small parking lot about 3 km from the main entrance and winds through a grove of white-barked birch trees that rustle in the wind like paper. The ground is carpeted with fallen leaves and wild strawberries in late summer, and the air smells of sap and earth.

I walked this trail on a rainy morning, and the forest was empty except for a woodpecker that followed me for a while, tapping at tree after tree. The rain made the birch bark glow white against the dark green of the undergrowth, and I stopped trying to take photos and just walked, letting the sound of the rain and the birds fill my head. It was the closest I’ve come to meditation in China.

📍 Location: Eastern edge of Nalati Grassland, about 3 km from the main entrance
🎫 Entry fee: Free
🕒 Opening hours: 24 hours
🚕 How to get there: From the main entrance, walk or take a taxi east along the main road for 3 km; the parking lot is on the left
⏰ When to visit: May through October; the forest is best in the morning when the birds are active
💡 Insider tips: The trail is about 4 km round trip and takes 1–2 hours at a leisurely pace. The wild strawberries are ripe in late July and early August; they’re small but intensely sweet. The trail is not marked, so download an offline map before you go. Wear long pants; there are ticks in the tall grass. The best photo spot is about 1 km in, where the trail crosses a small stream.
I found a patch of wild strawberries and ate them all, standing in the rain, feeling like I’d discovered a secret that the grassland was keeping for me.

7. The Eagle Cliff Viewpoint — Sunset, But Make It Worth It

Every grassland in China has a sunset viewpoint, and Nalati’s is at Eagle Cliff, a rocky outcrop at the western end of the main scenic area. The shuttle drops you off at the base, and you climb a series of wooden stairs to the top, where a platform offers a panoramic view of the entire grassland spread out below. On a clear evening, the light turns the grass gold, then orange, then pink, and the mountains in the distance go purple.

It’s beautiful, but it’s also crowded. On my last visit, I counted 200 people on the platform, most of them holding phones at arm’s length. The experience is a bit like watching a sunset in a stadium. But here’s a tip: instead of staying on the main platform, walk down the western slope about 100 meters to a smaller outcrop that most people don’t notice. The view is nearly as good, and you’ll have it mostly to yourself.

📍 Location: Western end of the main scenic area, about 5 km from the visitor center
🎫 Entry fee: Included in the main Nalati ticket
🕒 Opening hours: 8:00 AM – 9:00 PM, May through October
🚕 How to get there: Take the shuttle to the third stop, then climb the stairs to the platform (about 15 minutes)
⏰ When to visit: Sunset, which is around 8:00 PM in July and 7:00 PM in September; arrive 30 minutes early to get a good spot
💡 Insider tips: The western slope path is unmarked, but you’ll see it if you look for a faint trail leading down from the main platform. Bring a jacket; the wind at the top is cold even in summer. The shuttle back to the visitor center runs until 9 PM, but it fills up fast after sunset, so either leave early or be prepared to wait. The best photos are taken from the lower outcrop, not the main platform, because you can include the platform in the frame for scale.
I watched a Chinese couple take a wedding photo on the lower outcrop, the bride’s red dress whipping in the wind, and I thought it was the most romantic thing I’d seen in a long time.

8. The Nomad Camp at Bayanbulak — A Night in the Grassland’s Heart

About 60 km south of Nalati, the Bayanbulak Grassland is a separate, higher, and wilder expanse that’s often overlooked by tourists heading to Nalati. The nomad camp here is a collection of yurts run by a Kazakh family who’ve been herding in this area for generations. They take in a small number of guests, feed you dinner and breakfast, and let you join the daily rhythm of the camp: milking the mares in the morning, moving the sheep to new pasture, sitting by the fire at night.

I stayed here for one night in July, and it was the most memorable night of my entire trip to Xinjiang. The family’s grandmother, a tiny woman with a face like a walnut, taught me to make kumis, the fermented mare’s milk that’s the Kazakh national drink. It tastes like sour yogurt mixed with champagne, and it’s an acquired taste that I’m still acquiring. But the hospitality, the warmth of the fire, and the sound of the wind against the yurt walls made me understand why the Kazakhs call this place home.

📍 Location: Bayanbulak Grassland, about 60 km south of Nalati
🎫 Entry fee: $20 (¥145) per person for the camp experience, including dinner and breakfast
🕒 Opening hours: The camp operates from June through September; book in advance
🚕 How to get there: From Nalati, take a taxi or bus to Bayanbulak (about 1.5 hours, $25 / ¥180); the camp is 10 km from the town
⏰ When to visit: July and August, when the weather is warm and the herders are at their summer camps
💡 Insider tips: Book through your hotel in Nalati or Yining; the family doesn’t have an online presence. Bring a sleeping bag; the yurts have bedding, but it’s thin. The kumis is an acquired taste, but try it at least once; it’s a point of pride for the family. The camp has no electricity, so bring a power bank for your phone. The nights are cold even in summer, so bring warm clothes.
I tried to help milk a mare and got kicked in the shin, and the grandmother laughed so hard she had to sit down.

9. The River Valley Walk — The Easiest Beautiful Thing You’ll Do

Not every experience at Nalati needs to be an adventure. The river valley walk is a flat, easy path that follows the Kunes River through the grassland, past grazing sheep and the occasional yurt, with the mountains rising on either side. It’s the kind of walk you do after a big lunch, when you want to move your legs but not think too hard.

I did this walk on my last afternoon at Nalati, after three days of hiking and riding and getting lost. The sun was warm, the river was singing, and I walked for two hours without seeing another person. A herder’s dog joined me for a while, trotting alongside me like we were old friends, then peeled off to chase a sheep. It was the perfect ending to my time at the grassland, a reminder that sometimes the best moments are the simplest ones.

📍 Location: Along the Kunes River, starting from the main entrance and heading east
🎫 Entry fee: Free
🕒 Opening hours: 24 hours
🚕 How to get there: From the main entrance, walk east along the river; the path is easy to find
⏰ When to visit: May through September; the walk is best in the late afternoon when the light is soft
💡 Insider tips: The path is about 6 km one way, but you can turn back whenever you want. There’s no shade, so bring a hat and sunscreen. The river is cold and fast; don’t try to cross it except at the marked bridges. If you see a yurt with smoke coming from the chimney, that’s a herder’s family; they’ll usually wave if you wave first. The best picnic spot is about 3 km in, where the river bends and there’s a flat grassy area under a lone tree.
I sat on a rock by the river and ate an apple, and a small boy on a horse rode past and asked, in perfect Mandarin, if I was lost. I said no, and he nodded and rode on, a tiny cowboy in a red jacket.

10. The Winter Pasture Road — For the Ones Who Come Back

Most people visit Nalati in summer, and that’s fine. But if you’re the kind of traveler who likes to see places when they’re not performing, come back in October or April. The winter pasture road runs along the southern edge of the grassland, and in the off-season, it’s empty and silent and covered in frost. The yurts are gone, the herders have moved to lower ground, and the grassland is just grass, waiting for the snow.

I drove this road in October on my way back to Yining, and I stopped at a viewpoint to watch the sun set over the empty grassland. There was no one else around, no shuttle buses, no souvenir stalls, just the wind and the grass and the mountains. It was the loneliest and most beautiful moment I’ve had in China, and it made me understand that Nalati isn’t just a summer destination. It’s a place that exists all year, and it’s worth seeing in every season.

📍 Location: Southern edge of Nalati Grassland, along the road to Bayanbulak
🎫 Entry fee: Free
🕒 Opening hours: The road is open year-round, but may be closed briefly during heavy snow
🚕 How to get there: Drive or take a taxi from Nalati toward Bayanbulak; the road is well-maintained
⏰ When to visit: October and April for the best off-season light; the road is quietest on weekdays
💡 Insider tips: The road is about 60 km long and takes 1.5 hours to drive. There are no services along the road, so fill up your tank and bring food and water. The viewpoints are unmarked, but you’ll see them as pull-offs on the side of the road. The light in October is golden and low, perfect for photography. If you see a herd of wild horses, pull over and watch; they’re skittish, so don’t approach them.
I saw a lone eagle circling over the empty grassland, and I thought about how the cab driver in Yining had laughed at me for planning three days at Nalati. I’m glad I didn’t listen to him.

FAQ summary

Nalati Grassland is a high-altitude meadow in Ili Prefecture, Xinjiang, best visited from June to September, with peak wildflowers in late June and the herders’ summer camps in July. The full experience costs $50–$80 USD (¥360–¥580 CNY) per person including entry, shuttles, and one night in a yurt. Most international visitors can enter China visa-free for up to 30 days under the extended 2026 policy, but you’ll need WeChat Pay or Alipay set up, a VPN for Google services, and a Chinese SIM card or roaming plan. The main scenic area is crowded; the best experiences are in the side valleys, the high pastures, and the surrounding areas like Bayanbulak.

FAQ

Q: Do I need a visa to visit Nalati Grassland in 2026? A: Most international travelers can enter China visa-free for up to 30 days under the extended visa-free trial policy, which runs through 2026. Check the latest China visa-free transit policy before you book, as rules can change.

Q: How do I get to Nalati Grassland from Yining? A: From Yining, take a bus or taxi to the Nalati visitor center, about 4 hours away. The bus costs about $10 (¥70) and leaves from the Yining long-distance bus station; a taxi costs about $80 (¥580) and can be arranged through your hotel.

Q: What’s the best time of year to visit Nalati? A: Late June for wildflowers, July for the herders’ summer camps, and early September for fewer crowds and golden light. Winter is beautiful but cold and most facilities are closed.

Q: Can I use my credit card at Nalati? A: No, most places only accept WeChat Pay or Alipay. Set up Alipay before you arrive and link your international card. Bring some cash as backup for small stalls and tips.

Q: Do I need a VPN for my phone at Nalati? A: Yes, if you want to use Google Maps, WhatsApp, or Instagram. Get a China SIM card or eSIM before you arrive and install a VPN on your phone.

Q: Is it safe to ride horses at Nalati? A: Yes, but only with a guide unless you’re an experienced rider. The horses are well-trained but can be spooked by sudden movements. Wear a helmet if offered, and don’t gallop on unfamiliar terrain.

Q: How much time do I need at Nalati? A: At least two days: one for the main scenic area and one for the side valleys or high pastures. If you want to visit Bayanbulak or the Kazakh village, add another day.

The Honest Wrap-up

Nalati Grassland is not for everyone. If you want luxury, five-star hotels, and Instagram-perfect experiences without any dust, this isn’t your place. But if you’re willing to sleep in a yurt, eat food you can’t identify, and let a horse decide your route for a few hours, you’ll find something here that’s increasingly rare in China: a place that still feels wild. My advice to a friend about to book the flight: give yourself three days, not one. Skip the main scenic area on your first afternoon and head straight to the side valleys. Learn a few words of Kazakh. Accept every cup of tea you’re offered. And when the cab driver laughs at you, laugh back, and go anyway.